stitches and a stiff jaw

So yesterday I had my first surf in 3 weeks after the docter told me my ear infection had passed. Adin and I went to Caves early in the morning. I had a pretty fun surf. About an hour into my session I cought a bomb of a wave and pulled into the barrel. I lost my balance, fell and then my board smacked me in the face while I was being thrown around. I went out to chill for a bit and it tured out that I had a big cut on the side of my jaw. My mom took me to the emergency room where they stitched me up, did xrays and gave me a few injections. Spend half the day there. Now I'm out of the water again for 3 days.

discovery

Came across this spot last weekend. It's a really sick setup. The waves start of on a slabby section and then run down a short little point. Only 4 waves hit the reef correctly and ran all the way through while the others just faded out or missed the reef completely. Looks promising. It needs a very specific swell direction though...

little right

Missioned around the coast today with Rigard, Matt and Ian. We drove around searching for something special. Drove around in circles. In the end, what we found was worth our while. I was on film duty, as I still have a ear infection. If all goes well, I will be able to surf again on friday.

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