So yesterday I had my first surf in 3 weeks after the docter told me my ear infection had passed. Adin and I went to Caves early in the morning. I had a pretty fun surf. About an hour into my session I cought a bomb of a wave and pulled into the barrel. I lost my balance, fell and then my board smacked me in the face while I was being thrown around. I went out to chill for a bit and it tured out that I had a big cut on the side of my jaw. My mom took me to the emergency room where they stitched me up, did xrays and gave me a few injections. Spend half the day there. Now I'm out of the water again for 3 days.




No comments:
Post a Comment